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Main Line Times
Teikoku offers succulent Oriental fare on West Chester Pike
By Barbara Allyn
Posted on Thursday September 11th, 2003
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Teikoku is impressive in both fresh, sophisticated dishes and numerous yet unified decorative settings.
Large and handsomely transformed from an old barn on West Chester Pike, the Japanese-Thai restaurant is a
smashing departure from its siblings on the Main Line. Mikado and the two Thai Peppers, owe their popularity
to delectable fare, fair prices and attention to detail. Teikoku (Japanese for "empire") takes all that and
soars to new heights.
The high exposed roof structure, but the mellow mahogany throughout, the understated use
of appropriate accouterments - and the kitchen's offerings all combine for a tranquil dining experience.
There are two menus within one. The Japanese half, more in keeping with the dining rooms, leans to sushi and
sashimi including the unusual sayori (needlefish), bluefin toro (the ultimate fatty tuna), and aji (jackfish).
The Thai portion includes classic Pad Thai noodle dish with shrimp, curries, and lots of fresh seafood, steak
and rack of lamb - showing how the dining lines blur today.
Dinner this night came from the Thai side with the exception of an opening "Volcano roll." A colorful
architectural attraction, it begged to be ordered the moment it appeared on a nearby table. (Staff must spend
half its time answering patrons' question: "What is that over there?") It was generous enough for two to share
with the prerequisite sticky rice, vegetables both crunchy and velvety, and saucy fresh salmon just slightly on
fire ($7.50). An appetizer of silken pan-seared scallops ($7.95) was outstanding. Each fresh meaty bite simply
melted in the mouth. Expect ambitious but not intrusive presentations with sprinkles of edamame beans, rice
paper wraps, peanut or teriyaki saucing. Spring rolls, leek or lobster dumplings, soups, and salads - one of
spicy calamari - were other opening choices.
Grilled "jumbo" shrimp in a confetti of bright minced peppers and herbs made a pleasant entrée surrounding
a more flavorful mound of fine rice with lemon ginger ($19.95). A generous saute of red snapper filets was
seated on a plate literally covered with a medley of colorful berries, fruit and those large lustrous black
tapioca "pearls" ($22). The black pearls make an impressive appearance; their texture, which can be glutinous,
is not for all palates.
Other entrees tempted such as steamed Chilean sea bass in black bean sauce, favorites
like crab cakes and crispy soft shell crab, duck breast and red, green and yellow curries (check your fire
tolerance before ordering). The curry sauces also paired with salmon Choo Chee, grilled rack of lamb and the duck.
Not to be overlooked: divine chocolate pyramid and all the other lush desserts as well. The little pyramid was
so chocolately, so elegant a mousse/torte creation that one almost swooned.
Teikoku is located at 5492 West Chester Pike not far from Route 252. Call 610-644-8270. It is open for lunch
all but Sunday, 11:30-2:30 p.m., dinner weeknights 5 to 10 p.m., to 10:30 weekends, 4 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday.
There's also late night dining 'til midnight Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Major cards, ample parking lot.
Do check out all the rooms and that 20-something foot Honduras mahogany table by the open sushi bar. Bon appetit!
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By Barbara Allyn
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